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A pezsgő története Magyarországon
At the beginning of the 20th century Hungary was second only to France in sparkling wine production. And it wasn’t only the Hungarians who were drinking it since Hungarian pezsgő was exported far and wide. Before World War One, Hungarian sparkling wine (produced then by about twenty wineries) was enjoyed throughout Europe to the tune of six to eight million bottles a year.
Pezsgő is the Hungarian name for the sparkling wine in which the second fermentation takes place in the bottle rather than in a tank. It has been produced in Hungary since the first half of the 19th century, with centers of production then being in both Pozsony (which is now Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia) and in Budafok, which is just outside of Budapest. Budafok is still where the big guns of the modern Hungarian sparkling wine industry are located, and two important sparkling wine facilities were established there at the end of the 19th century.
József Törley was the first to open after moving his sparkling wine production from Reims in Champagne to Budafok in 1882. He bought vineyards in nearby Etyek after seeing the quality of the base wines he had been sourcing there for his business in Reims. Incidentally, Etyek-Buda is considered the Hungarian region with climate and soils most closely resembling those of Champagne. A few years later, his former French cellar master, Louis François, also founded his own winery nearby. Törley had realized that Hungarian aristocrats loved Champagne and his own locally produced version quickly became popular with the rising middle classes. Törley wines were known throughout the world by the early 1900s, with an annual production of two million bottles.
Naturalmente, nationalization and the Communist planned economy put an end to quality sparkling wine production for decades, with no cellars in private hands after 1950. Sparkling wine was still produced on a massive scale by state-run sparkling giants like Hungarovin and the winery in Balatonboglár. But quality was no longer a concern, only uniformity and volume. This latter name will be familiar to anyone who has purchased the cheap BB fizz, which is still available in practically every grocery store.
After Communism ended, Hungarovin-Balatonboglár ended up in the hands of the German firm Henkell-Söhnlein. The company started to label their sparkling wine Törley once again, and their premium range was labeled François Prestige, in honor of Törley’s former cellar master. Happily, the last few decades have seen great advances in Hungarian sparkling wine, and many wineries are now producing their own top-quality pezsgő to fill the increasing consumer thirst. Initially, tight regulations meant that wines were given their fizz only by dedicated sparkling wine houses. But the rules have been relaxed and now decent pezsgő is made in practically every region in Hungary. Törley is still the market leader with more than 50 percent of the market, producing a wide range of bubbles from cheap and cheerful habzó wine (produced by the tank method) to top-quality traditional-method pezsgő from a variety of grapes and in a wide range of styles and sweetness levels. You can also visit their museum in Budafok, which was once a wine-growing village but has now been swallowed up by the urban sprawl of Budapest.
Another large sparkling wine producer worth noting is Garamvári. Budaőrs-based József Szentesi, sometimes likened to a mad professor, is renowned for his skill with sparkling wine and has put the fizz into base wines from numerous other wineries. He is also a champion of local grapes and is researching which of the many long-forgotten Hungarian varieties are suitable for pezsgő production, since Hungarian pezsgő was traditionally made only from local varieties. The increase in demand for quality sparkling wines means that many existing wineries now also produce their own pezsgő. Many wineries in Tokaj are making sparklers from Furmint, which is well-suited to sparkling wine production since it produces a relatively neutral wine with high acidity. Sauska, based in both Tokaj and Villány, produces a range of relatively international styles while other producers, such as Zoltán Demeter, are aiming to make wines that characterize Tokaj more closely. However, the jewel in Hungary’s pezsgő crown has to be Kreinbacher on volcanic Somló Hill, whose pezsgő was first launched in 2014. It is generally acknowledged to produce the best and most consistent pezsgő in Hungary. This is in part thanks to its consulting winemaker from Champagne, who has won numerous awards for their wines. Their wines are primarily made from Furmint and produced on basalt soils, showing that you don’t need limestone, Chardonnay, or Pinot Noir to make fabulous fizz. Any serious sparkling wine fan should not miss tasting their wines!
Публикации и авторский взгляд
Sue Tolson is a long-time Budapest resident. A keen follower of the Hungarian wine scene, she is wine writer, judge, editor, and translator. More articles from this author If you're on the hunt for authentic Chinese cuisine in Budapest, look no further than Feng Wei étterem. This charming eatery specializes in traditional breakfast dishes that transport you straight to the heart of China. From comforting rice porridge and crispy scallion pancakes to delightful steamed buns and sweetened soy milk, there's something for everyone. A highlight is their sticky rice with ground meat and crunchy fried pork, as well as the silky tofu pudding that keeps locals coming back for more.
Small family buffet with 4 tables in the courtyard opening from Jegenye Street. Nice service, clean tables. Unfortunately, the advertised meat pie was not available. Broth, steamed dumplings and hot chocolate are available. Családias kis büfé 4 asztallal a Jegenye utcából nyíló udvarban. Kedves kiszolgálás, tiszta asztalok. A reklámozott húsos lepény sajnos nem volt. Húsleves, gőzgombóc és lángos volt kapható. Nem kiemelkedő, de kellemes ízvilág, omlós hússal.
There aren't many choices because they mainly serve breakfast and noodles. The shop isn't very big, with about 6 tables and no toilet. The prices are very affordable, but I personally think the wontons and meat slices are not very tasty, and the meat slices taste weird. There are rice and vegetables for sale at noon, but the quantity is limited. I see that the people who eat there are all acquaintances nearby.
Sticky rice is delicious! Мелкий текст на разных языках подтверждает разнообразие отзывов и кулинарных вкусов.
Altogether 1216 medals were given at the largest Asian wine contest under OIV patronage. Out of the 29 medal winner countries Italy is the first with 255 medals followed by Spain, Germany, France, Austria and Portugal. There are 9 grand gold medals given to Hungary, 7 of them are wines from Tokaj including Béres Tokaji Aszú 6 puttonyos 2016. The 2 non-Tokaj grand gold winner wines are both made by Etyeki Kúria: MSP Zenit 2020, a still dry white and Pinot Noir 2019. As looking through the 60 gold winner Hungarian wines, we can see how versatile the country’s wine production is: 31 red wines, 24 white and 5 rose received gold.
Hungary has many indigenous grapes - like the above mentioned Zenit by Etyeki Kúria -, but we are equally proud of the wines made of international grapes. And though the success of Cabernet Franc (especially in Villány) is not doubted by experts, Pinot Noir is usually not among the most successful varieties in Hungary. We have written several times about the Pinot Noir wines of Etyeki Kúria, since they are one of the top producers of the variety. The estate dedicates a whole vertical tasting to the variety every year. The winery is only a 30 minutes’ drive from Budapest, its wine bar is more than worth visiting. The wine bar offers a nice selection of dishes created to match the wines of the estate - and the wines are used for the preparation as well.
“We have had a passionate relationship ever since we planted the first vines in Etyek in 2001. Grapes were hand harvested in several steps, then carefully destemmed. Fermented for 14 days on the skins with manual punching down. Tamás Dúzsi, the founder of Dúzsi Family Winery has long been an expert of rosé wines, mainly because he never consiedered rosé a side product. He believes that to make an elegant, spotless rosé the winemaker has less tools than, for example, in case of oak aged red wines. Dúzsi estate has a whole portfolio of rosé wines - his Cabernet Franc Rosé 2022 rosé also won gold along with Dúzsi Welschriesling Selection 2019-, and Pinot Noir rosé is always among the most successful and popular ones. This blanc de noir sparkling wine is a novelty from Csányi Winery - whose wines are named after Zsigmond Teleki, the founder, a world famous viticulturist. The winery started to produce sparkling wine only a few years ago, and the rosé version of this bottle fermented sparkling wine has collected several acknowledgements, for example Teleki Tradíció 1881 Pinot Noir Brut Rosé Magnum 2018 received the highest points at Mondial du Rosé 2021 in Cannes, France.
Minden bortermelő ország történetében eljön az a pillanat, amikor már nem pusztán felfedezés tárgya, hanem valódi beszélgetés kezdődik róla. A Wines of Hungary 2026-ban hat kiállítóval érkezik a Vinexpo Asia nemzetközi borvásárra, a globális borkereskedelem egyik legfontosabb szakmai eseményére. Hongkong a globális borkereskedelem egyik meghatározó csomópontja. Amióta a város 2008-ban eltöröltte a borokra kivetett vámokat, Ázsia borpiacának megkerülhetetlen kapujává vált: olyan kereskedelmi központtá, ahol importőrök, gyűjtők, sommelier-k és disztribútorok találkoznak a kontinens minden részéről. Ázsia borfogyasztó középosztálya gyorsan növekszik, ezzel együtt pedig erősödik az érdeklődés az olyan borok iránt, amelyek többet kínálnak a márkaismertségnél.
A most felnövő ázsiai borszakmai és gyűjtői generáció képzett, kíváncsi, és egyre inkább keresi az eredetét, az egyediséget, valamint a prémium kategórián belüli jó ár-érték arányt. Egy olyan ország számára, mint Magyarország, amelynek ázsiai exportvolumene egyelőre szerény a minőségi potenciáljához képest, a hongkongi Vinexpo-n való jelenlét fontos stratégiai mérföldkő. A tokaji aszú továbbra is a főszereplő. A világ egyik legmunkaigényesebb borkészítési folyamatával készülő legendás természetes édes bor évszázadok történelmét hordozza. Ízprofilja szinte páratlan a borvilágban a koncentrált csonthéjas gyümölcsösségével, mézes komplexitásával, pengeéles savszerkezetével és mineralitásával.
